blogs/rabbi-joshua-hoffman

You would think that a 4 AM departure from a tent in the middle of the desert would be sufficient cause to overthrow the rabbi and rush to the closest Hilton Hotel! But, I could not have been more impressed by our entire group's deep patience and good nature to pick up and go forth. As it turned out, it was totally worth it.

After a short drive from the Bedouin tent to the Roman ramp on the west side of the Masada fortress, we hiked up the ramp to take our place on the top of the impressive land mass. Keren began to explain the history of the palace turned fortress. In the midst of her teaching Keren asked the group who we thought Herod, the builder of the palace, was. One of the children, as can only happen in the VBS community, raised her hand and said, "Sure! Herod Schulweis!". Indeed, he is legendary in our hearts and minds, and apparently in antiquity as well.

Then 'it' happened. Keren paused her explanations as the sun crested over the Jordanian mountains, and for approximately one minute, we stood in awe and amazement in the presence of such radiant beauty in the sunrise. And I believe it was on the top of Masada many of us began to feel the impressive depth of meaning in our journey, our pilgrimage to the Land of Israel.

Like so many archeological sites in Israel, each time you visit it seems like there is another piece of the puzzle that is revealed as you walk amongst the ruins. This time we were led to a unique reception room where Herod anticipated the official welcome of dignitaries and guests into the palace. There were actual frescos that had been carefully retouched by specially trained artists. Moreover, Keren added to the tragic story of the zealots who held off the Romans at Masada and eventually took their lives atop the mount by sharing a picture of the recent discovery of an actual braid of hair from a woman they believed escaped the final confrontation with the Romans...the woman whom Josephus was purportedly able to hear the incredible Masada story.

All this history and adventure before 8 AM! We descended the mountain for breakfast at the guest house Ana Masada, got on the bus for a short 20 minute drive and went to Ein Gedi. Ein Gedi is a pretty amazing place, not only because it is copious fresh water spring footsteps away from the Dead Sea, but it is also a place with significant connection to the Bible, namely the place where soon-to-be David hides while escaping the frantic quest of King Saul to kill him.   We took the short hike to Nahal David where a refreshing waterfall and pool greeted us as we felt the 100+ degree desert weather was beginning to get oppressive.

Leaving Ein Gedi was pretty difficult, given how fun, relaxing, and refreshing the visit was there. But knowing that our next stop was Jerusalem was even more exhilarating than the two incredible experiences we had already encountered on this day. The ascent to Jerusalem is slows darci us,but concludes with a tunnel underpass that lets out atop Mt.Scopus, the home to Hebrew University and one of the most picturesque views of the city. We stop at the viewpoint, moments after entering the city for a shecheheyanu blessing and a photo opportunity. It is a majestic moment to witness Jerusalem atop one of its rocky vistas, and the feeling that this is what we all came here to see is palpable.

What better way to jump right into the intense energy of Jerusalem than to visit Mahane Yehuda, the open-air market where the haggling for the freshest fruits and vegetables can be heard at every turn. This, compounded with another adventure of finding the bathrooms, was simply overwhelming as we split up for lunch and me shopping. (I offer my public apologies to the Price family for leading them astray in search of the restrooms! Evidently, the locations of the bathrooms changed since I last visited the market. I now understand what Moshe must have felt like after the third day of journeying in the desert with B'nai Yisrael...I could have asked for directions!)

I purchased an obligatory 3 kilos of the world's best rugelach from Marzipan bakery. That's roughly 6.5 lbs. of pure heaven. I practiced tremendous restraint in avoiding even one piece before Shabbat afternoon when we will all gather to conclude Shabbat and enjoy a festive meal together. But, part of a religious way of life requires developing a capacity to wait for ecstatic experiences, so the Marzipan will have to wait.

We make our way to the hotel with enough time to freshen up and meet in the lobby. Our marathon day is not quite over as we make our way to the Kotel to join the myriads of Yeshiva students, Birthrighters, Chabadniks, and other visitors as we welcome Shabbat in one of the world's holiest city. Before we head into the Old City, we stop in a local park to bring in Shabbat as a VBS community, egalitarian and interconnected. After five days of travel together, we are becoming family sharing each others' joys and sorrows. We remembered Wendy Freed's parents who were intending to join our trip but cancelled due to health issues days before the trip began. We also lovingly remembered Elaine Glick's husband who was also planning to join the trip and passed suddenly just two months earlier. Hugs and wishes of Shabbat Shalom were shared by all.

Approaching the Kotel - the Western Wall - is simultaneously breath-taking and emotionally challenging. There has been so much emphasis on that particular space as being the holiest place in the world for Jews for generations that the presence of a vibrant Jewish world outside the Old City walls is difficult to contend with. At the same time, there is an initial inaccessibility to the Kotel itself, not in a religious or sacred sense,but in a cultural and behavioral expression. For non-Orthodox American Jews steeped in a religious identity that is paradoxically nostalgic and completely innovative, the presence of 'tradition' collides with contemporary Jewish practice. Aside from the obligatory separation of men and women at the Wall, the presence of significantly large groups of Hasidic,Haredi, Traditonal and Nationalistic Jews NOT praying together is absolutely mind-boggling. We try hard not to reduce the experience to another stop on our tour through Israel, but the experience of feeling somewhat 'other' than those present forces us to return to our comfortable places of curiosity and context.   There's no avoiding the awkwardness, but for the brief moments of deep gratitude for fulfilling life long dreams to touch the Wall, place words of prayer into the cracks between the stones and offer our own personal prayers amidst the brothers and sisters of our collective Jewish family.

And the day still wasn't over! We make our way to a local restaurant in the Old City that remains open for us to serve a Shabbat meal.   By this time, now 17 hours of intense touring later, we are simply exhausted. Thank God it's Shabbat! We needed the day of complete rest after a day like today. And while the offer to visit local synagogues for Shabbat services the next morning was appreciated, the total absence of structure was even more welcome.